Westgate’s remade Edge Steakhouse satisfies with classic style

From Las Vegas Weekly review by Brock Radke, January 20, 2016

The iconic casino-hotel property that most people still identify as the Las Vegas Hilton was certainly in need of a makeover when timeshare mogul David Siegel bought it in 2014 and began transforming it into Westgate Las Vegas.

No dimension of its offerings needed to be refreshed as badly as its food, and those necessary changes have been made. Sure, its highest-profile restaurant, the unbelievably still-alive Benihana, remains, but Westgate has perked up its dining stable with Fresco Italiano, Rikki Tiki Sushi, Silk Road Asian Bistro, and the charmingly classic casino coffee shop Sid’s Cafe. But the undeniable champion of this culinary overhaul is Edge Steakhouse, a transplant from the Westgate Park City Resort in Utah.

When it was the Hilton, and then LVH, this building was forever trapped in the ’80s and ’90s. Frankly, as Westgate, it still is. But when you’re eating at Edge, you’ll realize that’s not a bad thing. That’s because while the decor still brings that vibe—white tablecloths, wood floors, cheesy pillars and chandeliers in the middle of the dining room—the menu, directed by chef de cuisine Steve Young, is updated and ideal, and the service, dictated by general manager Shaun Morales, simply sparkles.

Edge steaks are towering hunks of charred prime beef served on stark white plates with maitre’d hotel butter and a clove of garlic. Upgrade from the filet with the Manhattan sirloin ($57), flavorful and rich, or splurge on the Gold Label eye of ribeye ($78), marbled and juicy. Edge also serves the coveted Japanese A5 Wagyu for beef nerds and a 32-ounce bone-in porterhouse ($125 including two sides) for those interested in a shareable slab.

Other dishes are steakhouse standards with subtle, refreshing twists. The Silk Road shrimp appetizer ($18) does the Nobu spicy-creamy thing, while the prawn cocktail ($30) comes with chunky tomato cocktail sauce and Meyer lemon foam. Porcini mushroom soup ($14) with black truffle and goat cheese is a lovely winter indulgence, and Edge handles tableside preparation deftly with a classic Caesar salad for two or more ($16).

The current seafood highlight is Alaskan black cod done cioppino-style ($35) with clams and mussels in a broth rich with fennel. Of course, you can always add a Maine lobster tail, shrimp scampi or king crab Oscar-style to your steak. The side dishes ($12) don’t disappoint, ranging from black truffle mac and cheese with Irish cheddar, Gruyère and veal demi-glace to Brussels sprouts with sweet potato and Thai chili. If you’ve ever considered making a tapas-style meal out of steakhouse sides, this is a good place to test the theory, possibly incorporating lobster risotto or roasted mushrooms with Sherry vinegar and Boursin cheese.

Westgate will never be compared to the Strip’s elite resorts, and it doesn’t want to be. It’s a Vegas spot for our millions of Average Joe visitors, and Edge is the steakhouse equivalent. It’s a fine-dining experience with comparable prices where you get what you pay for—terrific food and total satisfaction.

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